Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

DOI10.1098/rspa.2005.1642zbMath1149.76608OpenAlexW2146405020MaRDI QIDQ3503348

Tom Baldock

Publication date: 22 May 2008

Published in: Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL: https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2005.1642

zbMATH Keywords

rogue wavesinfragravity wavesswashtransient wave groupslong waves, surf beat

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15)

Related Items (2)

A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach ⋮ Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach

Cites Work

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• Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore
• Statistical properties of wave groups in a random sea state
• Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents
• Long waves induced by short-wave groups over an uneven bottom
• Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves
• Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups
• On the nonlinear dynamics of wave groups produced by the focusing of surface–water waves
• Long–wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach

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