Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model

DOI10.1017/S0022112085002543zbMath0577.76022OpenAlexW2053792513MaRDI QIDQ3698484

Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza

Publication date: 1985

Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

Full work available at URL: https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112085002543

zbMATH Keywords

Boussinesq-type equationsdirectional distribution of energylinear finite-depth theorynon-breaking gravity wavesnonlinear finite-depth theorysea-surface-elevation skewness

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Basic methods in fluid mechanics (76M99)

Related Items

Waves on unsteady currents, Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone, Characteristic-eddy decomposition of turbulence in a channel

Cites Work

• Long waves on a beach