Diffraction of gravity waves by a barrier reef
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Publication:3928473
DOI10.1017/S0022112081000967zbMath0473.76027MaRDI QIDQ3928473
Publication date: 1981
Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)
scattering matrixvariational approximationsbarrier reefdiffraction of long water wavesmatched perturbation expansionsresonant amplification of incoming swellshallow lagoonsimple depth discontinuity
Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Scattering theory for PDEs (35P25) Asymptotic approximations, asymptotic expansions (steepest descent, etc.) (41A60)
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