Currents induced by long waves propagating towards a beach over a wavy bed
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Publication:4506164
DOI10.1017/S0022112000008545zbMath0994.76014MaRDI QIDQ4506164
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Publication date: 6 December 2000
Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)
analytical solutionswave propagationsolitary wavesperturbation methodcnoidal wavesoffshoreMaclaurin expansionbeachRiemann representationsinusoidal bednonlinear shallow water equation
Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography (86A05) Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15)
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