Nonlinear model predictions of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves

DOI10.1017/S0022112086002690zbMath0593.76025MaRDI QIDQ5903138

Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza

Publication date: 1986

Published in: Journal of Fluid Mechanics (Search for Journal in Brave)

zbMATH Keywords

initial conditionsanalytic solutionsbispectrabispectral evolutionBoussinesq model for a sloping bottomBoussinesq-type nonlinear equationsconstant depth Korteweg-de Vries equationharmonic growthmonochromatic primary wavetrainspectrum of non-breaking shoaling ocean-surface gravity wavesstructural evolution of the bicoherencevariation of the gentle, constant beach slopewaves propagating over a sloping bottom

Mathematics Subject Classification ID

Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction (76B15) Partial differential equations of mathematical physics and other areas of application (35Q99) Basic methods in fluid mechanics (76M99)

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Cites Work

• On the deformation of periodic long waves over a gently sloping bottom
• Long waves on a beach
• Periodic waves in shallow water