A note on the propagation of circular fronts into still water
By generalizing a simple argument due to \textit{M. E. Gurtin} [Quart. Appl. Math. 33, 187-189 (1975; Zbl 0339.76008)], the explicit expression of the amplitude of circular fronts advancing into water at quiescent state is obtained together with a criterion for the breaking or non breaking of such fronts as they climb a uniformly sloping beach.
scientific article; zbMATH DE number 4022852