Unidirectional waves over slowly varying bottom. II: Quasi-homogeneous approximation of distorting waves
type: Item
instance of: scholarly article
title: Unidirectional waves over slowly varying bottom. II: Quasi-homogeneous approximation of distorting waves
zbMATH Open document ID: 0956.76506
DOI: 10.1016/0165-2125(95)00038-0
author: S. R. Pudjaprasetya
author: Embrecht W. C. Van Groesen
published in: Wave Motion
publication date: 2001-03-07T00:00:00Z
review text: [For part I see ibid. 18, No. 4, 345-370 (1993; Zbl 0819.76012).] From the summary: We study the distortion of periodic and solitary travelling waves. The distortion is in the first instant approximated by a quasi-homogeneous succession of uniform waves, each one being determined by specifying the horizontal momentum (and hence the amplitude) at the location of the wave. The changing value of the momentum with position is found first from energy conservation. For periodic, cnoidal waves, for which the mass vanishes, the change of wavelength has to taken into account; some numerical results are given.
Mathematics Subject Classification ID: 76B15
Mathematics Subject Classification ID: 86A05
zbMATH DE Number: 1217265
zbMATH Keywords: solitary travelling waves
zbMATH Keywords: horizontal momentum
zbMATH Keywords: energy conservation
zbMATH Keywords: cnoidal waves
MaRDI profile type: Publication
full work available at URL: 0165-2125(95)00038-0
OpenAlex ID: W2164164507
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description: scientific article; zbMATH DE number 1217265